Yarn Count
The count is a numerical expression expressing the yarn’s coarseness or fineness (diameter). It also expresses whether the yarn is thick or thin. Also, indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mess per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. The definition given by the textile institute is, “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
Types of yarn count:
i) Indirect count – English, Worsted, Metric
ii) Direct count – Tex, Denier, Spindle.
Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus, the higher the count, the finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet spun), etc.
Direct count: The yarn count expresses the number of weight units in one length unit. Thus, the higher the count, the coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fiber, jute, silk, etc.
GSM:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric that is very important for a textile engineer to understand and produce fabric. GSM means “Gram per square meter,” that is, the weight of fabric in grams per square meter. This allows us to compare the fabrics in unit areas that are heavier and lighter.
Count selection in knitting:
Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to produce fabric of varying grammage. There is also a need to calculate the optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of the knitting manager to do certain calculations for the proper use of machines and the production of fabric according to the customer’s demands.
Relation between count and GSM are given below:
Single jersey:
110 – 120 GSM = 40/s, 36/s
130 – 150 GSM = 34/s, 32/s & 30/s
160 – 170 GSM = 26/s, 28/s (PC, CVC)
180 – 210 GSM = 24/s, 20/s, 18/s
220 – 240 GSM = 20/s
PK/LACOST/1X1 RIB:
150 – 170 GSM = 34/s
180 – 200 GSM = 30/s
210 – 225 GSM = 26/s
230 – 250 GSM = 24/s
250 – 270 = 20/s
2X1 RIB:
220 – 230 GSM = 30/s
240 – 250 GSM = 26/s
260 – 280 GSM = 24/s
INTERLOCK
22 Gauge – 24 Gauge
200 – 220 = 40/s
230 – 250 = 34/s
240 – 260 = 30/s
260 – 275 = 26/s
SINGLE JERSEY WITH LYCRA 5%:
150 – 160 GSM = 34/s
170 – 190 GSM = 30/s
200 – 210 GSM = 26/s
220 – 240 GSM = 24/s
FLEECE:
250 GSM = 20/s, 30/s (20: 80)
300 GSM = 10/s, 26/s (30:70)
Select Yarn Count for Your Specific Fabric GSM
Yarn count selection for specific fabric GSM is a technical and common task for textile engineers. Using a formula, they can easily select the actual yarn count for knot fabrics, which can vary for different fabric types.
Single Jersey:
If they require fabric GSM is 150
Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22
= (-0.141) X (150) + 50.22
= -21.15 + 50.22
= 29.07
So, we need a yarn count of 30/s to knit 150 GSM single jersey fabric
Interlock:
If the required fabric GSM is 210
Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56
= (-0.206) X (210) + 80.56
= -43.26 + 80.56
= 37.3
So, we need a yarn count of 38/s to knit 210 GSM Interlock fabrics
Pique:
If the require fabric GSM is 230
Yarn count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16
= (-0.146) X (230) + 57.16
= -33.58 + 57.16
= 23.58
So, we need a yarn count of 24/s to knit 230 GSM Pique fabric
1*1 Rib:
If the required fabric GSM is 200
Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57
= (-0.123) X (200) + 54.57
= -24.6 + 54.57
= 29.97
So, we need a yarn count of 30/s to knit 200 GSM 1×1 Rib fabrics
Double Lacoste:
If the required fabric GSM is 240
Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36
= (-0.167) X (240) + 64.36
= -40.08 + 64.36
= 24.28
So, we need a yarn count of 24/s to knit 240 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics
Lycra 1×1 Rib:
If required fabric GSM is 220
Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12
= (-0.119) x 220 + 59.12
= -26.18 + 59.12
=32.94
So, we need a yarn count of 32/s to knit 220 GSM 1×1 lycra Rib fabrics
Lycra 2×2 Rib:
If they require fabric GSM is 240
Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62
= (-0.108) X (240) + 56.62
= -25.92 + 56.62
= 30.07
So, we need a yarn count of 30/s to knit 240 GSM Lycra 2×2 Rib fabrics.
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/ February 11, 2025